Among the most eagerly awaited novelties at Watches and Wonders 2024 are undoubtedly the proposals from the Maison Tudor, which has confirmed the starring role of its flagship model, the Black Bay, introducing, among other things, the new Black Bay version and the Black Bay 58 GMT, meeting the demands and expectations of its audience, which has long been waiting for these novelties.
Rolex’s “little sister” (the name “Tudor” was first registered by Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex, in 1926, and then went on to produce watches with the same Rolex quality philosophy, but at a lower price) once again confirms itself as a market leader also for its ability to innovate and amaze, while still following in the footsteps of its prestigious tradition.
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT (Ref. 7939G1A0NRU)
Highly anticipated is the new Black Bay 58 GMT, certified Master Chronometer and introduced by Tudor at Watches & Wonders 2024, with a burgundy and black bezel. With this model, Tudor accommodates public demands that have long yearned for this iconic version, mocking all those who predicted the new “Coke” would be introduced directly by Rolex.
The name Black Bay 58 refers to the year in which TUDOR launched its first diver’s watch water-resistant to 200 meters: reference 7924, also known as the “Big Crown.” The 39mm-diameter case is also directly inspired by the aesthetics of this famous historical model, maintaining the unmistakable proportions of the 1950s. Perfect for accommodating the GMT function, a quintessential feature of watches intended for great travelers, the Black Bay 58 GMT combines this functionality with the style of mid-twentieth-century elegance.
The bezel, burgundy and black with a gold 24-hour graduation, is inscribed in the aesthetic language common to the Black Bay line. The design harkens back to the years when the first TUDOR dive watches were produced and jets whizzed across time zones, transporting travelers to destinations they had hitherto only been able to dream of, at a speed never before seen. The hour markers, hands and graduations on the two-tone bezel are embellished with gold-plated finishes.
Another distinctive detail of the Black Bay 58 GMT is the winding crown with embossed TUDOR rose.There is no shortage of iconic “Snowflake” hands, a distinctive feature of TUDOR dive watches since 1969, with Swiss SuperLumiNova® Grade A luminescent coating.The dial is matte black with gold details, slightly domed.
The bracelet is in riveted steel with three links or with a rubber strap, both with TUDOR’s “Tfit” quick-length adjustment system, with an aesthetic inspired by the riveted models the Maison used in the 1950s and 1960s.Those bracelets became famous for their visible attachment rivets on the sides of the links.They were also distinguished by the characteristic tapered design with links that, starting at the clasp, each had a slightly larger size than the previous one.
Today these two aesthetic details have been integrated into this new model, which combines modern full-link manufacturing methods and laser-finished elements that recall historic rivets.Easy to use, without the aid of any tools and through five positions, this handy component allows the wearer to instantly and precisely vary the overall length of the bracelet up to a maximum of 8 mm.In addition to offering a pleasant feel, the ceramic ball bearings on the clasp allow the bracelet to be closed easily and securely.
The Black Bay 58 GMT is also available with a black rubber strap that can be cut to size.Offered in three initial sizes, it features the TUDOR “Tfit” clasp to fit the wearer’s wrist perfectly.It features the emblematic “Snowflake” pattern on the inside to provide optimal grip, as well as the contoured shape designed specifically for this model.
The Caliber GMT MT5450-U
The Black Bay 58 GMT houses a Manufacture GMT caliber MT5450-U certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Control (COSC), with a silicon balance spring and a 65-hour power reserve.This caliber illustrates the process characteristic of TUDOR’s technical development, which is based on an adaptable movement architecture capable of integrating new functions rather than resorting to adding additional modules.A minor detail for some, but a fundamental quality for watchmaking purists. It features hour, minute and seconds displays as well as a GMT function, and its appearance is in keeping with the general aesthetic of the TUDOR Manufacture Calibers, with a specific laser-etched soleil motif and Master Chronometer inscription on the bridges to highlight its remarkable performance.
Its rotor, made of one-piece tungsten, features the characteristic laser-etched radial groove with sandblasted details, while the bridges and mainplate have alternating sandblasted and polished surfaces and laser decoration. With its variable-inertia balance wheel, held in place by a sturdy through-bridge with two attachment points, the Manufacture Caliber MT5450U is designed for solidity and precision. The movement is “Chronometer” certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Control (COSC) and its performance exceeds the standards set by this independent body.
In addition to being certified for its superior level of accuracy, the Manufacture Caliber MT5450U is also certified for its high resistance to magnetic fields: up to 15,000 gauss.Another notable feature is the autonomy of the Manufacture Caliber MT5450U, which is “weekend-proof,” that is, about 65 hours.This means that the wearer can, for example, take the watch off on Friday night and put it back on his wrist on Monday morning without having to rewind it.
The model is already available in all Tudor boutiques and is priced at CHF 4,300 (including VAT).
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