The GPHG, now at its 19th edition, is about to reveal its winners of 2019. Since 2001, the month of November represents a key moment of the year for every watch enthusiast and this time IWS wants to live it with you!
The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is a world-class event with the aim of raising awareness and enhancing the principles of high-end Swiss watchmaking, such as precision, technical expertise, innovation and the highest quality materials. GPHG awards are among the most coveted and renowned awards in the industry, so much so that they are considered the Oscars of the watch industry.
ItalianWatchSpotter couldn’t miss this prestigious event and provide you a quick overview of the most interesting proposals (and candidates for victory) for each of the twelve categories.
Ladies
In the Ladies’ category, the scene is dominated by three models that we have already talked about in previous articles.
CHANEL J12 calibre 12.1
The French maison presented this ceramic model with some differences from the previous version. Among the others the sapphire back, which, for the first time, allows you to see the automatic movement, the Calibre 12.1.
(To learn more click here)
HUBLOT Classic Fusion Orlinski Titanium alternative pavé
This model too, created in collaboration with the French artist Richard Orlinski, we had already discussed in the following article.
It is a watch characterized by many light plays, the result of the mirrored dial, the geometric lines of the case and the diamonds embedded in it.
From our point of view it is the best Hublot’s issue of 2019.
BULGARI Serpenti Seduttori
This model in yellow gold and diamonds-adorned bezel is among the favorites for the prize. Characteristic are the hexagonal pattern that vaguely resembles the scales of a snake and the silver opal dial.
(Read more about this model by clicking here)
Ladies’ Complication
MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT
A real work of watchmaking art, a concentration of mastery and technical expertise. It’s the first three-dimensional model by MB&F designed for women, with a breathtaking flying tourbillon.
It consists of a round white gold case with bezel and lugs completely covered in diamonds. The dial is protected by a high convex dome made of sapphire glass, below which stands the complex mechanism that regulates the entire movement.
Also interesting is the back where the auto-charged rotor takes the form of a three-dimensional red gold sun.
Mens’
ALCHEMISTS MECHANICAL HEALING Cu29
From the name of the model only, those who have studied a bit of chemistry can guess that the material that makes up this creation is fundamental.
In this case, however, it is a special copper alloy, the Cuprum 479, which combines the beneficial effects of copper with a high resistance to oxidation. All the parts of the watch in contact with the body are in this “beneficial” material and this choice has also influenced the arrangement of the caliber.
In fact, since they didn’t want to insert glass on the back to make the mechanism visible, it was chosen to bring the mechanical elements of the caliber to the foreground.
Click here to read the full article!
DE BETHUNE DB28 Yellow Tones
Featuring a golden-yellow titanium case, the result of a process of oxidation in which the brand is a true leader, and futuristic lines is one of the most beautiful novelties of the watch scene.
Wearable, dynamic and eye-catching, you can discover it here!
Mens’ Complication
ZENITH Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon
For the first time, the El Primero caliber is equipped with two tourbillons, one associated to the chronograph with 50Hz frequency (the fastest in the world!) and the other associated to the operation of hours, minutes and seconds.
You can find the detailed table of this technical masterpiece here, while, if you want to find out what a tourbillon is or how this piece works, we recommend our article!
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Overseas Tourbillon
It is the first model in the Overseas collection to be equipped with a tourbillon that integrates perfectly with the caliber 2160.
The peripheral rotor allows a complete view of the movement without any kind of obstacle.
Characteristic is the Malta cross, maison’s logo, which constitutes the cage of the tourbillon. (For more information, see our article.)
Iconic
With this award, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève aims to reward the model that has had a great influence in the last 25 years of watch history and market.
AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-thin
Unusual pairing of salmon dial, first appeared in 1992, with white satin gold. (We talked about the “original one” there!)
White gold is also a throwback: it was used exclusively in the 1980s for the blue dial and diamond-index model.
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Tribute to Pallweber Edition “150 Years”
A tribute to the first pocket watches produced by IWC at the end of the nineteenth century, this model is characterized by hours and minutes in digital format thanks to the rotating discs on which the numbers are printed. The movement is regulated by the 94200 manual caliber.
A return to the past because of the complication, but with a winning aesthetic.
Chronometry
ANTOINE PREZIUSO GENEVE TTR3 Blue Equalizer Frequencies
A unique piece of priceless value, not only for the 233 sapphires embedded in the 18k white gold case.
This very complicated timepiece is equipped with a movement featuring three tourbillons, mounted on a rotating plate, which allow you to adjust the energy distribution and correct any variation in frequency.
The case is 47mm and the three exposed tourbillons draw on the dial an equilateral triangle in continuous motion.
If you don’t know why three tourbillons are better than one, this is the article you’re looking for.
ZENITH Defy Inventor
In this model, Zenith eliminates the classic spiral balance spring, proposing a single-element oscillator that can provide stability, reliability and insensitivity to thermal and magnetic variations.
The frequency of 18Hz (much higher than main competitors) and the Aeronith bezel (a very light but extremely durable aluminum and polymer alloy) make it a really prestigious piece from the Swiss maison.
(More information can be found here)
Calendar and Astronomy
AUDEMARS PIGUET Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar
A very classic model with traditional lines that contrast with the starry dial. Needless to say, it has been an extraordinary success and is now almost impossible to find.
It features an in-house automatic movement, characterized by the complication of the perpetual calendar.
You don’t remember what a perpetual calendar is? Discover this complication in our article!
HERMES Arceau L’heure de la lune
It’s not usual to mention Hermes among great Swiss watchmakers, but with this piece, the maison known for bags and leather goods, has amazed everyone.
The watch highlights the complication of the moon phase: on the dial, at 12 and 6 o’clock, two mother-of-pearl discs are embedded. Two satellites show the time and date, rotating around a central pinion, always being oriented correctly, represent the tool to display the moon phase. The movement of the satellites obscures and progressively shows the mother-of-pearl discs, thus visualizing the moon phase.
Mechanical Exception
BULGARI Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Perpetual Calendar
Made in one piece only, to celebrate the anniversary of the first Grand Sonnerie created by the genius Gerald Genta, it is one of the most amazing complicated watches produced in recent years.
(Find out better here!)
Chronograph
BULGARI Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic
It is the umpteenth record-watch for Bvlgari.
At 3.3mm thick, it is the thinnest GMT chronograph ever made while maintaining the typical traits of the Finissimo line, guarantee of refined design and always fascinating.
Find out in our dedicated article.
TAG HEUER Carrera Tourbillon Nanograph
A concentration of technology and innovation. The predominant material is carbon, that makes up the case and from which the hexagonal pattern of the dial is inspired.
This model has been equipped with the special Heuer 02-T movement, which, in addition to the tourbillon, presents an absolute novelty: a composite carbon balance spring. A detail that improves the performance and accuracy of the watch.
Diver’s
DE BETHUNE DB28GS Grand Bleu
A real watchmaking masterpiece. De Bethune was able to perfectly blend the complications of high watchmaking with all the characteristics of a sports watch: comfort, waterproofness and ease of use.
In addition, this model is able to generate, in a totally mechanical way, its own light to ease the reading in low light conditions.
Find out how in our article.
Jewellery
BVLGARI Serpenti Misteriosi Romani
A true jewel that hides a watch inside.
The lines echo those of ancient Roman bracelets, with a snake sinuously wrapping around. The whole thing is covered with over 60 ct of diamonds and 35 ct of sapphires.
Special congratulations to Fabrizio Buonamassa, who we interviewed in this article!
JACOB&CO The Mystery Tourbillon
Unlike Bulgari’s, this piece from Jacob&Co is a watch that becomes a jewel.
The manual-wound movement is equipped with two triple-axis tourbillons that allow the movement of “mysterious disks”, deputies to hours and minutes indication.
A real magic to have on your wrist…
Artistic Crafts
VOUTILAINEN Starry Night Vine
For the creation of this work of art, the work of two of the greatest artists in the use of enamels and lacquers is blended.
Tatsuo Kitamura created the top of the dial, the sky above the vineyard, vaguely reminiscent of Van Gogh’s “Starry Night”.
The lower part, created by Anita Porchet, represents a typical Georgic scene: a vineyard, full of fruits and leaves with nuanced and pleasant colors. Even externally, the theme of the vineyard is maintained, in fact, case and lugs are decorated with grapes and leaves engravings.
Petit Aiguille
This particular category of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève awards the best watch of the year in the price range between 4000 and 10000 Swiss Francs.
TRILOBE Les Matinaux Sunray Grey
This timepiece “combines architecture, poetry and design.”
Trilobe redesigns the watch by reversing its patterns: there are no more hands that rotate clockwise but three rings, indicating hours, minutes and seconds, in continuous motion. The 2892 caliber is coordinating everything, totally renewed for the purpose.
DAVID RUTTEN METEORITE WATCHES Streamline
This limited series of 88 pieces only is characterized by the particular material that’s been used: iron meteorite.
In particular, this is the Muo Nio Nalusta, a meteorite that fell millions of years ago and was discovered in Scandinavia in 1906. Rutten to “honour” this extraterrestrial metal reinterprets the Guichet watch, which minimizes the reading area to make room for the expertly cut meteorite.
Challenge
TUDOR Black Bay P01
Born from a late 1960s prototype designed for the U.S. Navy, this watch encapsulates the typical Tudor contemporary sports spirit with some technical tricks designed to make it more functional and suitable for military use.
This gives us a watch between a diver and a navigator. It features the in-house MT5612 caliber that guarantees robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, features that allowed it to receive COSC certification.
