In 1943, Audemars Piguet introduced the reference 1533 and today, 77 years later, the watchmaker reimagined it with the release of the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 (ref. 26595SR.OO.A032VE.01), a grail that many have patiently waited a long time for.
Royal Oak? CODE11:59? No!
It seems that Audemars Piguet have changed their game plan, and now their focus is on a historic era where many lesser known watches were made. Well-read watch enthusiasts (not just Audemars Piguet connoisseurs) probably are already familiar with this watch. We can indeed confirm that for many, particularly fans of the Le Brassus watchmaker, the Audemars Piguet 1533 is a reference just as iconic as the 5402 Royal Oak.
Although aesthetically they are very similar, Audemars Piguet have inserted some slight variations as well as new features to the [Re]master01... let’s dive in!
Case
This may come as a surprise to many of you: a two-tone case! Who saw that coming?!
Radical style and design is a common trait in Audemars Piguet’s DNA, and the [Re]master01 is no exception. Housed in a steel and rose gold case, it follows in the footsteps of its predecessor: in fact, the ref. 1533 is regarded as one of the best examples of the two-tone steel-gold case, although nowadays this case configuration is very rare and often regarded as “out of place”.
Teardrop-shaped lugs, a slim bezel, allowing for ample real-estate for the dial, and gold pushers: we’ve seen this before – so, what’s changed?
According to official descriptions, the case was “revisited with a modern outlook”.
Of course, this is a fancy way of saying they made it bigger: the 40mm case of the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 is a significant step up from the 1533’s 36mm.
Is it a bad thing? If you’re (incredibly) fortunate enough to possess an Audemars Piguet 1533, then perhaps yes, but if you like to admire the perfectly proportioned dial in all its beauty, then absolutely not.
Dial
This is the main attraction of the piece, especially when we pay attention to both the overall aesthetic and the small details.
Audemars Piguet chose a champagne-coloured dial for the [Re]master01, with black fonts and insertions that harken back to the Art Déco era, and a blue tachymetre. The hands fit in well with the design of the dial, with gold hands for the hours, minutes and seconds sub-dial, meanwhile the ones for the chronograph function are blue.
The well-trained eye and fans of the Audemars Piguet 1533 alike will immediately notice 3 key features...
4|5
In the chronograph counter at the 9 o’clock position, we can find a “4|5” insertion, which you wouldn’t expect to find on any other chronograph from that time.
Do you like football? Because Jacques-Louis Audemars sure did. He loved it so much to the extent of asking his watchmakers to include a function that would allow you to time the first half of a football match. The Heritage Department at Audemars Piguet acknowledged Jacques-Louis Audemars’ peculiar taste, and so they kept this unique detail on the [Re]master01.
“Genève”
“Wait, didn’t you say they were from Le Brassus?” Yes, as a matter of fact, we did. Let us explain:
In 1885, Audemars Piguet opened a lab in Geneva in order to be closer and better connected to the European market. At the turn of the century, their watches began to bear the “Audemars Piguet” stamp, and immediately below, the “Genève” writing would be present.
Naturally, paying homage to the ref. 1533, the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 has the “Genève” stamp, too.
Chronograph Sub-Dials
The classic sub-dials of the ref. 1533 have been re-shuffled, but are aesthetically identical and serve the same purpose.
On the [Re]master01, the regular 60-second sub-dial was shifted from 9 o’clock to 6 o’clock, the 12-hour counter moves from 6 to 3, and finally the 30-second counter now occupies the 9 o’clock space.
If you’re unfamiliar with these features, have a read of our articles on chronograph functions, the first of which you can find here!
Movement
Now, this is a bit of a hot-topic.
Powering the new Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 is the in-house caliber 4409, an automatic flyback chronograph movement, visible thanks to the sapphire caseback.
The 4409 is a modified version of the 4401, present in the CODE11:59 models released last year. What’s changed? For starters, the 4409 does not include a date function. Also, in order to compliment the two-tone case, the oscillating mass is made from rose gold.
Even though Audemars Piguet have marketed this as a reimagination, and not a “re-issue”, some collectors are already looking away in anger because of this automatic movement, with the sapphire caseback rubbing salt in the wound. But, realistically, as times change, styles change with them. An automatic caliber is far less of a hassle, and, in fairness, it compliments the new, larger diameter of the case.
We don’t believe in a strict “right” and a “wrong” when it comes to this: what matters to us is that the piece is consistent with the context it was released in.
A record-breaking watch
The Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 was released today, but a handful of 1533s have popped up on the aftermarket in recent years, amounting to record numbers. Let’s not forget that upon its release in 1943, a grand total of 3 pieces were made.
The watches that made appearances at auctions between 2013 and the present day, were auctioned off for €288.000 (2015), €362.000 (2018) and €108.500 (2013) respectively. When considering that the first and third 1533s from below are configured in the exact same manner as the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 released in March 2020, we can immediately understand how important this model is in the illustrious history of Audemars Piguet.
In conclusion
The watch was also created to celebrate the opening of the Audemars Piguet Museum, on the 25th of June, where you will see one of the original 1533s from above, after the brand acquired one from Alfredo Paramico’s collection.
The Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 will be made in limited quantities: only 500 will be sold, each at a price of €54,800. They will be made available for sale on the 30th of March 2020.
Hopefully, the [Re]master01 will spark the return of the steel-gold case configuration, as well as shine a light on AP’s rich and innovative history.
Thinking of buying it? Let us know in the comments below!
Translated by Patrick R.
