The introduction of the 565 reference highlights the pioneering spirit that distinguishes Patek Philippe since its birth.
Today we deal with it, focusing on what makes the 565 a very modern and appreciated watch.
At the beginning of the 1930s much of the world licked its wounds following the 29th’s crisis, which, in addition to a general collapse of all economic sectors, had also caused a decline in demand for goods.
In this regard, each company had to rethink itself to offer products at lower costs but that were, in any case, in line with their own quality standards.
Well, even Patek Philippe, already known as one of the most prestigious maisons, had the need to design models, which could satisfy the lower propensity to spend, on the part of its customers.
This met with another trend of practical nature, the desire to have watches with waterproof cases.
From the union of these two needs, the idea of a revolutionary watch for the classic Patek Philippe dictates was born, that is a steel timepiece with waterproof case.
Through this maneuver Patek hoped both to acquire a new category of customers and to fulfill the requests of those, already customers, wanted to wear a Patek even in less formal situations.
However, the Geneva-based maison project was not easy to implement, because of two elements.
First of all, the production of the waterproof cases was not yet fully prepared and only a few companies could guarantee a quality product.
On the other hand, steel was a material, until then, ignored by watchmaking but that was making its way, as it was less expensive than gold. Its great problem was the difficulty of processing, due to the greater hardness compared to the gold and silver canons. All this assumed that the manufacturer was equipped with special machinery and tools, which was not a given at the time.
From this situation it is inferred that the number of companies was really small.
The choice fell almost immediately on a unique company of its kind, in terms of innovation and foresight, namely Taubert & Fils.
Taubert & Fils
In 1924 Taubert took over the Borgel company, a brilliant case manufacturer, which had already filed a patent for a waterproof case in 1892.
The reasons why the daughter of the founder, François Borgel, sold her father’s company are uncertain, but it is assumed to be of an economic nature.
At the same time as Borgel’s acquisition, the company renamed itself Taubert & Fils and updated Borgel’s patented case from thirty years earlier.
Thanks to the capital of Taubert & Fils and the ideas left by Borgel, the company became a leader in both the production of waterproof cases and in the processing of steel for watchmaking.
The relationship between the purchased company (Borgel) and the buyer (Taubert) is at least unique, as, to date, Borgel is much better known than Taubert & Fils.
In all likelihood this is due to the fact that, even after the acquisition, the name Borgel continued to appear in advertisements and on the cases. In fact, on them, you will never find the Taubert & Fils mark, but only that of Francois Borgel, immediately recognizable and synonymous with quality and robustness.
The Borgel mark, recorded in 1887, is formed by the initials of the founder (FB) supported by the Geneva key.
Initially, in keeping with the conservative spirit that has always characterized it, Patek Philippe entrusted Taubert & Fils only to case production, not the design.
The first case entirely designed by Taubert appears, in 1935 on reference 438, in 28m.
The introduction of the 565
After an initial “experimental” use of the new case made by Taubert & Fils, in 1938 a reference was introduced that in many ways we could define as revolutionary.
This is reference 565, the peculiarity of which certainly resides in the two-body case, patented in the early 1930s.
It owes its fame to four main factors.
The great quality of construction
Such as to induce many of the most famous maisons to use it.
In addition to Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Ulysse Nardin also chose this case.
The decagonal screw back
Part of the patent, along with the dust cap, which also served to hold the movement.
The size
It was a 35mm case, an oversized measure for the time. These connotations made it the first waterproof Calatrava case of considerable size.
The crown
The shape of the crown is also really characteristic, as it has a slight outward bump. Collectors nicknamed it “priest hat“.
The customer who purchased ref.565 could choose between two available versions:
Seconds at six
It is the first version, introduced in 1938 and remained in the catalogues until the end of production, in 1952.
Over the years two are the calibers that have equipped this version.
The first movement, 12-120, remained in vogue until 1949, when the 12-400 was introduced.
Models that feature this movement are extremely rare, so much so that to date, only four are known.
Continuous seconds
Introduced in 1939, it came with the 12SC caliber, derived from the 12-120. This version will also know a second movement, the 27SC, featuring the prestigious Geneva Seal, which will appear in 1950.
The component that makes a 565 more desirable than another is absolutely the dial.
There are many different configurations, some of which are extremely rare and attractive to collectors, such as the following ones.
Radium dial
This Patek Philippe565 was sold by Phillips in November 2016 to an exorbitant 322.000 Swiss francs, or 212.000€, plus 25% (74.000€) of fees.
The reason why such an example is so quoted lies in its dial, which makes it a unique piece. In fact, in it, come to converge so many elements sought by collectors, that is: radium indices and spheres, central seconds and the black color of the dial, very rare and appreciated.
Breguet numerals
The Breguet numerals, in addition to making fans go crazy, give the dial a unique charm and elegance.
To date, fewer than fifteen specimens of Patek Philippe 565 are known, with what is surely one of the most sought-after configurations, being Breguet numbers applied and radium hands.
This was sold by Phillips in May 2018 reaching a remarkable amount of 137,500 Swiss francs (94.500€ plus 31.500 fees).
Dealer’s signature
As we now know, “double signed” dials are particularly appreciated by collectors.
In this case we are faced with a splendid Patek Philippe 565 retailed by the Venezuelan dealer Serpico Y Laino.
The watch was sold by Phillips in May 2017, for 63.750 Swiss francs (44.250€ plus 14.750 fees).
As usual in Patek Philippe, before 1947 dials have the full signature (Patek Philippe & co), while after that year there will be only the inscription Patek Philippe.
Not only Patek Philippe
As already stated, Taubert & Fils’ waterproof cases were very successful.
In fact, in addition to Patek Philippe, other prestigious houses used the same case as the 565, such as Movado, Doxa, Vacheron Constantin and Ulysse Nardin, as you can see in the picture.
Take as an example the maison Doxa, which proposed models with the same case as the Patek Philippe 565 and for this reason today known as Doxa 565. Usually these specimens had 32mm cases, but there is also an extremely rare 35mm version.
Although the models of the aforementioned maisons are certainly less quoted than Patek’s 565, they are incredibly rarer and difficult to find than the latter.
For these reasons, these watches are a great way to differentiate your collection, ranging in a field that is decidedly unusual but full of charm and history, without spending a fortune.
Translated by Lorenzo Spolaor (@lorenzospolaor)
