This year, the family of Schaffhausen’s admiral, the IWC Portugieser, is expanding, welcoming both new models that wink at the past and new technologies.
Introduced at Watches & Wonders 2020, we find some pleasant surprises for vintage simplicity lover, as much for those who want to draw as much information from their watch as possible.
Few in history have been able to give us a watch like the Portugieser.
Its clean lines follow the well-studied proportions that, although they were growing in recent years, have always given this watch an aspect of refined practicality. Elegant, classic, yet always well contextualized. Modern, despite it’s more than eighty years.
IWC Portugieser “Reduced”
This is how IWC introduces us to these new models: “New models with Reduced Diameters”.
The feeling (or perhaps desire) of many collectors, that after enduring watches of 44 mm and beyond, we would have witnessed the return of smaller measures, seems confirmed. ItalianWatchSpotter thanks.
The Portugieser Automatic 40 (ref. 3583) brings the collection back to more traditional lines, with a 40 mm case and small seconds at six, and is powered by the in-house caliber 82200 with 60 hours of power reserve.
There are four versions available: three stainless steel, one in 5N gold.
All the straps are alligator, but the steel versions have a deployant clasp while for rose gold it resists the more traditional (and formal) buckle.
The price for the three steel models is 7,250€, while for the gold variant we have to go up to 17,000€.
IWC, however, does not forget the many who prefer a more important presence on the wrist, for a more modern look.
We find two models of Portugieser Automatic 42 where, in addition to the increased case, at six o’clock we no longer find the seconds but a date.
The greater width of the dial allows to move the seconds to nine and add a power reserve at three.
A modern spirit is also found in aesthetics. The gold model is paired with a wonderful satin blue dial while, for the more eclectics, in the steel model we find a burgundy dial that allows you to bring a touch of color in a still formal context.
The price of these colorful timepieces is 12.600€.
One of the most beloved versions from the Portugieser family, embraces three new models in playful colors: two, recalling the reduced models, and a unique one to this collection.
We find a steel variant with a burgundy dial, one with a green dial and a gold one with blue dial.
For the two steel versions, the price tag is set at 7,950€, while we reach 17.700€ for the gold one.
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar
The classic Portugieser line is enriched with four new models, which in terms of size continue to follow the trends of past years.
So, we have three perpetual calendars in 42mm and one in 44mm.
As the material’s prestige and size grow, prices range from 22,700€ for the 42 mm steel version up to 38,200€ for the 44 mm gold version.
Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide and Chronograph
Despite now being a watch worn in the most prestigious offices and restaurants around the world, IWC does not forget that the Portugieser has maritime origins.
Originally commissioned by two Portuguese businessmen, the maison was inspired by the marine chronometers it produced for the British Navy at the time.
From this past, the Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide (ref. 344001), IWC’s first tide indication watch, was born today.
If your task on board is not tide control, but timing, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (ref. 3970) offers you higher water resistance than the classic Chronograph, as well as a comfortable steel bracelet and crown guards.
Prices for these two Yacht Club models are 13,000€ for the steel chronograph, 19,700€ for the steel-gold two tones, while for the brand new Moon & Tide the price is set at 36,500€.
For many years now we have been used to seeing complications on the Portugieser, always impeccably executed, without disturbing the clean aesthetics of this model.
The first model we will analyze is the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph.
The Chronograph is one of the most popular versions, we already known, but in front of this model with retrograde date indication and flying tourbillon at six o’clock, we can’t speak anymore and simply admire it.
Available in two versions, both limited editions of 50 pieces, the list price is 112,000€ for the gold and 131,000€ for platinum.
The second and final model presented by IWC is the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon.
Able to balance the tourbillon and the perpetual calendar, without distracting from each other, respecting the balanced proportions to which the Portugieser has always accustomed us.
For the gold model we are faced with a price tag of 123,000€, while 142,000€ for the platinum.
A huge variety from IWC… are all these models really needed? Can be that in many cases it’s a mix of already used ideas?
Presenting many models certainly means satisfying a lot of people, but who knows if everyone will be able to find their watch among IWC’s extensive offer for Watches & Wonders 2020. We like the Reduced line a lot and, personally, we’d like to see a perpetual calendar below 44 mm.
Do you have a favorite already?