Today we return to what we are passionate about in the world of watchmaking, the element that makes the watches of the great Swiss maisons unique and desired: the complications, and in particular the minute repeater.
What is it?
Enthusiasts know it well: it is one of the most complex complications to design and, at the same time, one of the most coveted and desired. For those who don’t know, we’ll give you a little preview: it is a complication that, upon activation of a lever or button, produces a melody that allows you to hear the time without reading it on the dial. In the course of the article it will be explained in detail how this complication works and which are the most coveted models that house it.
When and why was it born?
Unfortunately, we do not have a certain date to which the birth of the minute repeater can be traced, much less do we know exactly to whom to attribute this complication. The earliest certain sources of this invention date from about 1670, when the English reverend Edward Barlow proposed a system that by means of a complex mechanism of gears, called rakes and snails, allowed the emission of certain sounds that indicated the hour.
However, in the following years there was a dispute with watchmaker Daniel Quare over the rights to the patent and the actual authorship of the complication. The issue was only resolved in 1687 through the intervention of King James II. The sovereign subjected the two craftsmen to a challenge with the complication’s patent at stake.
Both were to submit a repeat of quarters for the attention of the king and the Clockmaker’s Company. After careful consideration, the king’s preference ended up with Quare’s. The motivation? The clock presented by Barlow required the touch of two buttons to activate the repeat, Quare, on the other hand, had been able to achieve the same result using only one button.
At the time this represented a very important innovation, as it solved a real need. In fact, until the advent of electricity and the light bulb, it was impossible to read the exact time, and this complication made it possible to hear it, overcoming the obstacle of darkness.
How does it work?
The minute repeater is quite complex. There are very elaborately shaped gears that move along with the hands of the clock, rotating with each minute. When the repeater slide is actuated, a spring is wound that starts the movement, thus activating the chime.
Then there are three rakes whose job is to read the position of the hour, quarter and minute gears. The number of chimes performed on the two gongs (the two metal “wires” that resonate when struck by the hammers) depends on the position of the hands.
Usually we find two distinct sounds: a more grave sound for the hours, a high and grave sound (alternating) to signal the quarters elapsed since the last hour, and, finally, a high note to signal the minutes elapsed since the last quarter. Obviously if there are no quarters they are not sounded (e.g. at 8:07, 8 grave notes, a pause, and 7 high notes will be heard).
One aspect that should not be underestimated is the time it takes for the hammers to strike the gongs. They, in fact, should not be too fast, in order to allow the wearer to count the chimes, at the same time, however, they should not be too slow. (The mechanism must take about 20 seconds to express 12:59)
Our Proposals
We decided to bring you a few examples of watches where we think the minute repeater has been interpreted or realized in a noteworthy way. Here are the four pieces selected for you:
IWC — Portugieser Minute Repeater – EUR 91.300
Classic line for this model from IWC, 44.2mm case in 18ct red gold and white dial. The lever located on the right allows the minute repeater to be activated. Note the price: it is one of the few models with this complication to stay under €100,000.
BVLGARI — Octo Finissimo TB Carbon – EUR 170.000
An extremely sporty model from the finissimo line. The design and carbon fiber make it completely different from the usual minute repeater watches with extremely classic lines. The layered carbon case has a diameter of 40mm, the movement is mechanical with manual winding, but the most surprising thing is its thickness: only 3.12mm. This feature makes it the thinnest minute repeater in the world.
PATEK PHILIPPE — “World Time” Minute Repeater – EUR 500.000
Classically designed watch. It combines two of watchmaking’s most complicated complications: the hours of the world (explored in depth in this article) and the minute repeater. In addition to the highly prized movement, which allows the two complications to coexist, this model is characterized by its sophisticated and refined aesthetics: a 40.2mm 18ct rose gold case, cloisonné enamel dial, and alligator strap that lends timeless elegance.
MOSER — Swiss Alp Watch Concept Black – EUR 350.000
Although it may resemble an Apple Watch, this unique model produced by Moser represents one of the greatest modern innovations in watchmaking. The design is extremely minimal, so much so that Moser thought of eliminating even the hands, but replacing them with a minute repeater and adding a tourbillon to make it even more precise. In this piece the complication, which is usually exclusively a technical exercise, a demonstration of skill, becomes extremely fundamental. (Read more in our article on this very special model)
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